Mark Agnew
The spectacular ridge line on Ladhar Bheiin.
Scotland's most remote Munro proves the power of paper maps
Approaching a Munro by kayak, and hiking it, feels particularly immersive. It gives me a sense journey that is lacking in just hiking, or just kayaking. But to truly unlock Scotland's wilderness, we forwent technology in our planning. Our stayventure proved to me the power of paper maps, and their ability to spark my imagination.
To hike Ladhar Bheinn from the North, there is no choice but to approach the mountain under your own power by kayak or a long walk. It is considered one of, if not the, most remote Munros in Scotland.
The simplest way is to come from the South. You can take a ferry to Inverie and hike from there. But you'll rob yourself of a spectacular ridge walk.
We kayaked in from the North and entered Loch Hourn. A low cloud blocked any view of the mountain's on our approach but it made for an ethereal atmosphere.
Hiking to Ladhar Bhienn up and down two different ridges.
We arrived at the wide tidal sands that sit in from of the Barrisdale Bothy. We towed our kayaks up a river to save ourselves carrying them over the beach. Having covered 44km by kayak that day, hauling the boats up the river was about the last thing we wanted to do.
The bothy was full so we pitched a tent near by and went to sleep.
Waking up, the clouds had clear. It was a pristine day. The water was a vivid blue and the colours of the moutains were a stark contrast to the loch's surface.
Waking up by the loch to vivid colours all around.
We packed up and followed a path that would have taken us all the way to Inverie, if we walked to its completion. Instead, we branched off the path into the tall grass to hike along a ridge that was off the beaten path.
After an initial steep climb, we made it onto the ridge line. The grass was short, and exposed rocks made for easy walking on firm ground.
A striking pyramid summit stood tantalizingly before us. Even though we knew this was not the Munro summit, a part of us wondered if it was. It was easy to be lulled into the hope that we did not have far to go.
The route was easy to follow by this point. There was some exciting scrambles up steep exposed cliffs.
A flase but spectaular summit, lulling into thinking we did not have far to go.
Now we really were on the ridge. It was a stark drop to our right, with Loch Hourn far below. To our left was a gentler slope and a distant view of Mallaig and the Small Isles.
What is it about a ridge that makes it so appealing? The dramatic drop draws hikers from all around. You'd miss it if you came from the South. Those who do not kayak have to walk to Barrisdale - the extra effort is worth is for this incredible ridge line.
I usually relie on Google to find and plan my trips. This time, I had a map of the whole Knoydart Peninsular. It helped fuel my imagination. I spread it out on my ktichen table and examined the coast line for kayak landing spots, and the mountains for alternative routes to the summit.
Steep gullies cascaded like waterfalls.
Viewing the whole area in context allowed my mind to run wild with ideas. I was not confined to scrolling on a small screen. Even if I had seen the ridge or the beach, it would have been harder for me to appreciate that one was near the other. I would have reverted to type and found the path of least resistance, and least reward.
We could now see Ladhar Bheinn. It is an incredible mountain. Cliffs pour of its summit. Vertical gullies streak parallel to each other, hundreds of foot down. They look like dozens of rock waterfalls, frozen in time.
It is magnificent and I felt so glad we had taken the time to come from this direction.
Looking back along the amazing ridge.
On the summit, a cloud set in. It robbed us of any view, but it did curl off the ridge line so one side was clear and the other had a swirl of mist turning into cloud. It was pretty awesome to see.
We headed down the mountain via a different ridge line and could soon see Barrisdale again.
Heading back down towards Loch Hourn.
We hopped across a river and were finally back on a designated path.
It was the most spectacular mountain I have hiked in Scotland. If it was not for the sweeping view from a paper map, I would have trudged up from the ferry and never seen the true wild side of Ladhar Bhienn.
The internet and phones are a great entry into the outdoors. They can spark ideas and introduce you to knew landscapes. They make the initial stages of planning simple.
But I have a new appreciation for the paper maps - they fuels my imagination and allow my mind's eye to run through Scotland's wilderness before even taking a step outdoors.